One of the most fun times I've had on Dwilight was the initial colonization of the Divides in the creation of Swordfell. The hopelessness of oppressive starvation, horrible roads, and near constant monster-sprouts was !FUN!. The pressure of a real challenge is engaging, and the more engaged people are the more they interact with one another.
Playing almost anywhere in Dwilight used to feel like that. Now that frontier challenge is slowly disappearing as the map fills up with realms.